Finistère may have disappeared from the Shipping Forecast, but Finistère, Department 29, France, is very much with us.  This most westerly region of Brittany in mainland France should be a ‘must’ on any visitor’s list of places to see.  Brittany (formerly Bretagne) is an ancient Celtic country that maintained its independence from France until the end of the fifteenth century.  Today the inhabitants of Brittany are fiercely proud of their Breton culture and nowhere is this more evident than in Finistère...

France and England have been inextricably linked almost from time immemorial and  most of us are aware of the main French personalities who have played a part in shaping their country’s fortunes.  Other leaders of France rate barely in line in our history books. There is one King, almost unknown outside of France, who was instrumental in shaping the futures of France and England for many centuries and by his action created the longest war in our histories...

Driving down to the south of France, across the wonderfully varied countryside, the sun’s warmth working its magic after the cold of winter, it is not easy to think of this region of France as being home to bloodthirsty deeds.

However, between the years 1012 and 1020 what appeared to be a new religion emerged in the Limousin region of France and, gaining strength, spread southwards to the Languedoc, a province famed for its tolerance and liberalism. This was the beginning of a sad period in French history...

Charlemagne

Charlemagne’s life is a jumble of fact and fiction. A great king, he was known throughout the western world from the epic poems recounting his noble deeds, some exaggerated or even invented. While legend tells of his heroic exploits bringing Christianity toall four corners of his empire, he was a ruler whose true story and legacy to Europe were probably even more impressive than the romantic myths surrounding him and his knights. Was he, in fact, a thoroughly modern European?

Nothing has been recorded about his birth and early boyhood, though it is generally thought he was born in 742AD, probably on the borders between Germany and France. When his father died, Charlemagne and his brother shared their inherited empire, but within 3 years his brother had died, and Charlemagne at the age of 29 became ruler of a vast realm. He was King of the Franks, and it was the Franks who gave their name to France, despite the Romans having previously conquered Gaul.

Charlemagne became the ruler of western Europe “by the sword and the cross.” During his lifetime of 71 years, he waged ferocious campaigns across Europe to subdue the infidels and enforce Christianity. At the height of his power,  his empire extended across Germany, Switzerland, Holland, Belgium and part of Italy as well as most of France. It was only the French, however, who took Charlemagne to their hearts and he has become inextricably linked with the French nationality. Today most other Europeans know little of him and the debt modern Europe owes him...

Nothing had prepared me for the sight that met my eyes as we stood at Cap Fréhel, on the north coast of Brittany and looked along the rugged cliff faced coast line that is the Emerald Coast.  It was spring time. The air was warm and filled with the promise of the summer to come.  We were having a short break to recharge our batteries after a hectic winter, but that short break led to many more and to this area becoming my favourite part of France. 

Emerald is the colour of the sea along this coast line.  It is the only word that can be used to describe it.  At that time of the year the heather and gorse, purple and yellow, was massed along the cliff edges, the emerald green sea crashed on the rocks below. The sight was stunning.  It took my breath away, which may sound rather like a cliché but nevertheless it is true. We walked amongst the heather and looked down from cliffs that overhang the sea, more than 70 m below, sometimes a sandy beach, and sometimes stark granite boulders.  The love affair had begun.

This region though is not just wild rugged coast line and sandy beaches, magnificent as they are.  It is oysters at Cancale, with its numerous restaurants looking out towards the oyster beds; it is crêpes, galettes and local cider; it is the fishing villages of St Brieuc and Dinard; it is Mont-St-Michel and the pirate town of St Malo and much, much more.  Everywhere with its own history, its own story to tell.

Take St Malo, once the home to pirates – though Louis the X1V preferred to call them privateers, as he was accustomed to a share of their booty.  It was named after a Celtic Welsh monk. This walled port city even declared itself independent for 4 years from 1590.  La Ville Intra Muros was completely destroyed in 1944 and, after the war, rebuilt in its original style. Just take a walk around the Intro Muros granite ramparts or along its narrow cobbled streets and marvel at this accomplishment. 

The whole of this northern coast line from St Malo to Roscoff is known as the Côtes d’Armor.  Westward from St. Malo is the Côte Emeraude, which was my first introduction to the area.  Not surprisingly the region has attracted famous artists, such as Renoir, Monet and Picasso. We spent a truly spectacular afternoon, walking from the light house at Cap Fréhel, built for the safety of the St Malo sailors, along part of the GR34 (the coastal route of Brittany) around the bay to Fort la Latte, a medieval fortress built on a rocky promontory at the entrance to the bay.  On the day we visited we were treated to a re-enactment of medieval life.  It takes roughly 3 hours to do the walk from Cap Fréhel to the Fort and back, plus time to walk around the fort. 

That evening, on our first visit, we dined on the local fresh seafood at the Logis de Diane, Sables-d’Or-les-Pins and, ever gluttons for punishment, ended the evening by walking once more, this time along the miles of golden sands as the sun went down, listening to the sound of the waves gently breaking on the shore, and felt at peace with the world.

To get the real flavour of this area though, you need to travel along the whole of the coast line, so let me tell you a little about it.  Continuing westwards from Sablé d’Or, is the Côte de Penthièvre and the town of Erquy.  Known as the Ville Rouge, it is probably most famous for its seafood, particularly the Coquille St. Jacques.  Eat them accompanied by a glass of chilled Muscadet, the wine of Brittany and you are dining on food that is fit for a king.  Move on to the Baie de Saint-Brieuc, with is cliffs and valleys, savage rocky coves and small fishing villages.  This area is often described as the country at the sea side.

Less well-known is Côte de Goelo, the Coast of Brightness, which stretches from St. Brieuc to Paimpol.  This is a wilder, harsher shoreline, with small seaside towns squashed into narrow rocky inlets. Here the GR34 is often called the Excise Men’s route. Smugglers of old knew to take care, as the customs men regularly walked the path.

The northern-most coast of Brittany is Côte de Granit Rose where, at Perros-Guirec, the pink coloured granite rocks have been eroded and form the most fantastic shapes.  Many of the beaches here are formed from the crystals of crushed granite, whilst over the sea, wheel and dive the many birds that inhabit the off-shore bird sanctuary of Sept-Îles.  At Tréguier, a hillside town which is unusual to find in Brittany, is the cathedral of St. Tugdual, where St.Yves is buried.  St.Yves was born here and died in 1303.  Because of his incorruptibility he became the patron saint of lawyers and later, in the 1920s, he became the patron saint of Bretons.

Finally, there is Roscoff Port with ferries to and from Plymouth and Cork.  It is home to the only museum that I know of dedicated to The Johnnies. These are the onion sellers, wearing their striped jerseys and blue bérets, who leave from Roscoff, with their bikes, during the summer months, to ply their onions in the UK.

Don’t think this area is all about the coast line though.  Inland are numerous villages, all with their weekly markets selling local produce, the most famous of which are the cauliflowers. Many of the villages host fêtes and festivals throughout the summer months.  An easy drive from the north coast is Rennes, the regional capital.  Originating in the 2nd century BC, with its many architectural styles, art galleries, ancient monuments, it is not surprising this city is known as City of Art and History.

It is a long time since this coast and the coastline of Cornwall in the UK were joined together as one continuous piece of land. Fortunately the geological events of times past have given us this magnificent region to enjoy.

They came from out of the mists of ancient times, quietly and peacefully at first, integrating easily to the way of life of the existing population. But hard on their heels came their more aggressive brothers, who battled their way across Europe and finally, finding their place in the sun, settled in France. These people, whose origins remain unclear, had come down from Bohemia and afterwards dominated Europe for over 1,000 years.