Finistère may have disappeared from the Shipping Forecast, but Finistère, Department 29, France, is very much with us.  This most westerly region of Brittany in mainland France should be a ‘must’ on any visitor’s list of places to see.  Brittany (formerly Bretagne) is an ancient Celtic country that maintained its independence from France until the end of the fifteenth century.  Today the inhabitants of Brittany are fiercely proud of their Breton culture and nowhere is this more evident than in Finistère.

History

In the Breton language Finistère means ‘The end of the Earth’.  It is easy to see why the ancient Celts chose this name as they looked towards the wild Atlantic Ocean stretching out into the distance.  There were close links between the Celts of Brittany and the Celts of Cornwall.  Indeed, one region of Finistère is still called Cornouaille, which is Breton for Cornwall.  Since it was settled by the Celts, the Romans, the Normans, the Spanish and the Germans have invaded the region.  At times, it has been raided by Pirates and Sailors.  Much of the local folklore involves the sea.

Geography

Its climate is warm, because being in the west it is sheltered but it also gets its fair share of rain.  It is this rain that gives the countryside its rich fertile soil and the glorious green landscape that makes it so attractive.  The dark loamy soil produces vegetables of high quality, such as shallots, artichokes, spinach and the famous cauliflowers, all of which are sold throughout France.

The coastline is widely varied from rugged cliffs, small bays and coves, to long stretches of sandy beach.  The whole region is covered by 4,200 km of footpaths.  These paths follow the footsteps of the ancient Celts and early Christians. Today they are popular with tourists; some of whom will just take a gentle stroll through beautiful countryside during one day of a holiday, others, based in a Gite, will walk each day on a different route. The yet more energetic will carry their packs on their backs, walking the length of a randonnée, stopping each evening at a different watering hole.

Places to go and things to see

Brest

Set amidst a dramatic landscape at the entrance to the stunning natural harbour at Rade de Brest, Brest is the large city in this region and is home to the French Atlantic Navy.  It had to be rebuilt after the Second World War so is composed of many modern buildings.  Even though many people spurn contemporary architecture, some of the newer buildings in Brest are eye-catching and there is still the old town to meander around.  One of the most remarkable sites to visit is Oceanopolis, which is far more than an Aquarium.  The visitor takes a unique journey around the marine world. Three pavilions, holding 45 aquariums, display the ecosystems of temperate, tropical and polar climes. 

Brest is home to the oldest naval museum in the world at the Castle Museum.   As well as a wide-ranging display of naval artefacts, it houses a superb collection of paintings, sculptures and model ships.

To discover more about the history of Brest visit the Tanguy Tower. The Montbarry Fort, extending over 3 hectares, is a fascinating reconstruction of events in Finistère during World War II. This site holds a moving reminder of the deprivations and horrors of war suffered by all involved, civilians, resistance workers, soldiers and prisoners alike. Areas of the Fort are dedicated to different aspects of war, not only the fighting that took place but also how the injured were cared for, food preparation, the barracks of the German troops. All the vehicles on view are still functional, most of them having taken part in the Normandy landings.

Every 4 years, to celebrate its maritime history, Brest hosts a tall ships meeting.  The next one will be held in 2008.

Outside of the town, it is not far to wonderful sandy beaches, granite cliffs, grottos and impressive landscapes.

Quimper

One of the most prominent places to visit is Quimper, further down the rugged coastline from Brest, famous for its pottery and fine gothic Cathedral.  Arrange to be there on the 4th Sunday in July to participate in the Festival of Cornouaille, when the town celebrates Breton traditions and music.  The two famous musical instruments associated with Brittany are the Bombarde, a recorder style instrument and the Biniou, a small bagpipe.  Played together they give Breton music its distinctive tone.

Concarneau

Arrive here in the early morning and you will see the morning fish auction. There are no prizes but try and guess who’s doing the bidding and who wins the auction.  This is the 3rd largest fresh fishing port in France, most noted for its tuna. Medieval walls, enormous granite ramparts and fortifications surround the old town, Ville Close.  These have attracted many artists over the years, the most famous being Paul Gaugin.  The Fishermen’s nets in this town are traditionally blue, from where the town got its nickname, Ville Bleu.  In August the town celebrates The Festival of Blue Nets. 

Pays du Bigouden

South Finistère, in the beautiful Bay of Audierne, famous for its tall lacy Breton headdresses, are long stretches of striking sandy beaches and traditional fishing communities, dotted along the coast.  Pointe de la Torche near Plomeur is renowned for its outstandingly high waves and attracts surfers from around the world. Visit in April for the flower festival and see a display of tulips that rivals that of the Dutch bulb fields. Two Dutch families, who settled in the area some years ago, used their expertise and started the tradition.

Traditional food

With so much of this area consisting of coastline, it is impossible to escape the seafood.  Share a ‘fruits de mer’ platter with friends and sit and talk away the night as you eat your way through a serving dish piled high with oysters, clams, mussels, scallops, lobster, winkles, crabs and prawns.

Most restaurants in the area will serve wonderful fresh fish but meat lovers are not forgotten with local pork and locally made sausages on most menus. 

Look for the Crèperies, which serve the traditional wafer thin pancakes, made from either plain or buckwheat flour.  Gallettes contain the savoury fillings, whilst crêpes have the most delicious sweet fillings, all washed down with locally made cider.   Many restaurants in the area will offer a choice of different ciders, and some will serve this with the menu of the day, instead of wine.

There are so many places to see in this beautiful area of France. Locronan, a totally preserved medieval city, the Crozon peninsula, the port of Douarenez.  The list could go on and on.  But one of the main attractions of this area is the fact that there are just so many places to discover, places well off the tourist track, each one a delight.  Try it and see.  Oh, and the motorways in Brittany are free.

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